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If you tried yerba mate once or twice and were put off by its pungent, earthy taste, try it again. It’s an acquired taste and over time most people find that they actually savor it. Such is the evolution of many a novice turned connoisseur. The flavor of mate cannot be compared to coffee or tea. Yerba mate has its own unique flavor and surprisingly there are many variations.

Yerba mate flavor variations are important because different regions have different taste preferences. That is why there are now an estimated 200 brands of yerba mate. Regional preferences are also based on the consistency of the product, the method of preparation, or the way the mate is consumed and whether it is consumed hot or cold. Of course, with so many different brands available, there are many flavor options to choose from too.

In April 2006, my wife and I had the honor of a private tour of Establecimiento Las Marias in the Corrientes province of Argentina. Las Marias is the largest yerba mate company in the world. They produce four major brands (LaMerced, Mananita, Taragui and Union) and several varieties of each brand. It should be obvious that this company knows something about flavor and taste.

As Maria Ines, our gracious hostess and guide, showed us around the lush green grounds of the Las Marias plantation, she explained that each of their brands has a distinctive blend of three main ingredients – leaf (“hoja”), stemlets (“palo”) and powder (“polvo”). The leaves create the flavor, the stemlets soften and balance the flavor and the powder binds the flavor components. Therefore, varying combinations of these three primary ingredients produce different consistency, color, aroma and flavor.

She went on to say that there are many other factors that contribute to variations in brand flavor attributes. Yerba mate grown in the mountain regions tastes different from the yerba grown in open fields; it is bolder and more robust. The time of year the plants are harvested also makes a difference in the flavor; the winter harvest produces milder yerba that summer. The cut of the leaves, fine or coarse, causes still another difference; the finer cut leaves have a stronger flavor. Even the length of time the yerba is aged (or “stationed”) contributes to a difference in flavor; the longer it is aged, the milder the flavor.

Adding further to the flavor differences are the methods of curing. Some brands offer “roasted” yerba, some brands are “smoked,” some are aged from 9 to 24 months and some are more “green.” All of these curing alternatives develop what is known as the brand’s flavor profile.

There is also a fourth component to some of the brand offerings – added herbs, spices or fruits. These special “additives” are blended with yerba mate to produce extra health benefits or to simply add a new flavor to the mate. The added ingredients might be: boldo, mint, lemon, orange, ginger or chai spices. I’m not a big fan of flavored mate, but I do like the grapefruit (“pomelo”) flavor and the chai spices.

You are, no doubt, familiar with wine “tasters” and maybe even beer and tea tasters, so it should come as no surprise that Las Marias has yerba mate tasters too. It is a revered calling in South America. These highly trained professionals are often second and third generation tasters and they represent an important component in a quality control plan that assures customers of a perfect mate – every time. They know exactly what each of their signature brands should taste like and reject inferior product. The yerba that does not pass their “taste test” is discarded and used for compost.

Although I am not an expert taster by any measure, I have used dozens of brands, and I like some much more that others. So, let me humbly offer this advice: If you have only tried one or two brands, you are not in a position to pass judgement on the taste of yerba mate. Keep sampling and you will eventually find a brand that you like. And remember – it’s an acquired taste.

Salud!